0540 On the road early today. Delayed a little by Tony falling down the steep, rocky bank. Fortunately, little damage, grazes and abrasions, but Tony saw his life pass in front of his eyes as he plummeted towards the sea. Murphy's Law operates. Had we driven on last night for only 5 miles we would have passed a dozen or so restaurants, many with ample parking. It's so easy to be wise after the event. Travel along the winding coast road, through barren mountains. Mainly loose rocks, with a few scrubby bushes. The islands just off the coast, large as they are, look no better. Perhaps things will improve when the sun gets up. Through several small hamlets or villages. Can't think how they make a living, other than fishing. According to Plan A we should arrive in Sarajevo early enough to clear customs before they shut down for the weekend. We haven't a hope! In any case, we are now bound for Vitez, not Sarajevo.
0622 Senj. Stop to buy bread.
0745 Breakfast - boiled eggs, cold ham & fresh bread. Living like kings today! Carrying on down the Dalmatian coast we see a few small herds of sheep or goats, each with its shepherd or goatherd. No flock larger than 10 animals, 6 or 7 more usual. Still little for them to eat. As we get nearer to Zadar we start seeing signs of the recent war - burnt out vehicles beside the road, buildings damaged by gunfire. At one place a lorry had gone off the road and was being looted as we drove past.
The desolate hillsides1000 We need to turn away from the coast towards Gracac, but the camper is getting low on fuel. We decide that the safest thing is to send the camper into Zadar if necessary while the lorries wait. It could be some time as Zadar is about 20 miles away. Brian, Tony & Sue head off into what would be the sunset if this were a few hours later. They pass a sensitive military installation where photography is prohibited, then over several bailey bridges linked together to replace the sunken ferry beside it. On the return, Sue takes photos claiming that the "no photography" signs only operated in the other direction.
Martin Illings recommended that we cross into Bosnia at Karamenko and has faxed details of the route through Gracac, Knin and Sinj. Our map shows that part of the road between Gracac and Knin is unmade, but passable by vehicles. The map also shows a similar road through Obrovac which would reduce the distance considerably as it is a much more direct way from here to Knin. Let's go for it!
1020 We have turned off towards Obrovac but have a problem. Beside a burnt out factory the road forks. There is a signpost for Obrovac, but it could indicate either road. The one which looks the more used has a "lorries prohibited" sign. While we study the way ahead through binoculars a man appears from the factory. He says the "lorries prohibited" road is the one we want. At least, we think that's what he says. Sue muttered "It's not his lorry!" Press on again. The road is narrow, and runs downhill steeply, round numerous hairpin bends. Fortunately there is little traffic until, as we enter Obrovac, we meet a bus coming the other way. He has to back down the hill as there is no room to pass. It is quite obvious from the sign language what he thinks of us. Fortunately there is nobody from the nearby police station who is interested. The bus station is burnt out, as are the dozen or so buses standing there. Through Obrovac and back uphill out of the valley - more hairpins but the road is a little wider. Signs for Knin at the offset crossroads at the top of the hill, but not the way we expect. We ignore the signs and really motor along a good wide road with no other traffic. Through deserted villages, every building in ruins. Still desolate, rocky countryside.
The end of the roadThe rough track ahead looks passable, but Roy takes the camper along it to check out whether or not we can get the lorries through. From our high viewpoint we can see houses dotted around, but all in ruins. No other sign of human life and we are probably 6 or 7 miles from the next human being. Just after Roy returns, a battered Lada pulls up with two men in it. They head off along the track after telling us that the made-up road starts again 4 kilometres along and that it will be OK for us to go through. Sue mutters "It's not their lorry either! And what about land mines?"
The rough track. Are there any landmines?
We decide to follow. Soon pass the Lada pulled up at the side of the track with the two men having a picnic! It's a mighty long 4 kilometres, but eventually, after passing through more deserted villages, we find a proper road again and increase speed above 10 mph. Everywhere still deserted but at last we spot a house still occupied, then another. Not many of them, though. Coats are to be seen hanging on hooks in some of the deserted houses. What has happened to the occupants? Fields are untended and going back to nature, fences broken. Occasional white or yellow tape indicates uncleared minefields. Unfortunately we don't seem to be heading the way we should be, but eventually Brian finds out where we are. We arrive at Kistanje, a smallish town which should be a busy little place. Almost a ghost town - just one car with driver and one pedestrian. On towards Knin with buses, lorries, cars and even a tank lying burnt out beside the road. Approaching Knin we joined up with an IFOR (Implementation Force) convoy and followed them through the town. From here on we were to see many IFOR vehicles.
1515 Vrlika. Fuel stop. While we filled up, a car with two very loud and scruffy young men pulled up blocking our exit. Garage attendant refused to take our money with these yobs around, but as we descended from our vehicles they decided that discretion was the better part of valour and took off, having put just a little petrol in their battered car. On towards Sinj, running through beautiful scenery with a lake beside the road for many miles. Roy fancied a swim.
1610 Sinj. Stopped by police for document check. He wanted to see tacho card and complained that the time on it was wrong. Great difficulty explaining to him that our journey had started in UK, so we were running on British time. Eventually he got fed up and let us through.
1710 Kamensko. Trying to get out of Croatia, but it seems they don't want to let us go. At least the camper has got through without trouble and is parked beside the temporary buildings and tent of the Royal Military Police and the ambulance section of 23 Para who maintain a post just inside the Bosnian border. They make us very welcome. It becomes obvious that there is no way to get the lorries through the border tonight, so we adjourn to the restaurant for a meal. The local brew doesn't agree with Brian, who is rather unwell. Bed reasonably early, 2200ish.
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